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Bistro du Nord, a diminutive boïte on upper Madison Avenue, packs a powerful one-two punch of Gallic flavor and cozy atmosphere. The restaurant maximizes its space with sleights of hand like French doors, a double-high ceiling, and large mirrors. Nostalgic black and white portraits, rattan chairs, burgundy banquettes, and beige walls create an inviting mood; a staircase leads to an open, dining loft above that looks out over the main room below. The menu adheres to well-executed bistro classics: an unusually expert onion soup, a beefy broth teeming with this aromatic, melt-in-your-mouth vegetable, thickened with bread, and topped with gruyre cheese that's been broiled until bubbly and browned. Between the steamed mussels, green peppercorn pâté, braised lamb shank, and sautéed skate, you won't find any surprises, but the kitchen is caring and on the ball.  Clearly, good restaurants often do come in small packages. — Michael Anstendig

Soupe à l'oignon, $8.95; filet de cabillaud rôti aux deux moutardes, purée à l'huile de noisette, $25.50