Profile

The French culinary scene in Williamsburg conjures images of dimly lit cafes and specialty cocktails, but this shoebox bistro, headed by Jean-Georges alum and Michelin-starred chef Sung Park, is entirely focused on the food. Rather than serving pricy, Americanized versions of typical Franco fare, Park creates skillfully executed modern dishes at reasonable prices using local and seasonal ingredients. The chef’s Asian background is reflected here and there, most notably in the bouillabaisse, which has an abundant amount of fresh scallops, mussels, pollock and shrimp mixed with fried tofu, rice gnocchi, kombu, Korean chili paste and kimchi. In addition to a variety of other seafood options, the kitchen offers savory meat dishes like strip loin steak and freshly made pasta dishes including farro mushroom risotto. It may be difficult to save room for dessert, but the French doughnuts - flavored with cinnamon, mint, or citrus - are certainly worth it. Be sure to make reservations and bring your own drinks - the condensed dining area only seats eleven people countertop style, and the restaurant’s full BYOB policy means even tap water is not provided. (Fortunately, neighborhood fans claim the food makes such inconveniences well worth it.) — Sara Idacavage

The South Is Rising: Williamsburg, or part of it, anyway, is undergoing yet another wave of change. (9/9/12)