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When this restaurant opened in the early 2000s, its refinished wood floors and dark-red walls signaled gentrification on a block that had very little. A few years later, the floor's scuffed, the single table is gone (leaving just four ripped-up vinyl stools), and the façade’s now-scruffy charm blends in easily with that of its neighbors. By now, the pies have also hit their own solid-but-not-outstanding groove. Their crust, thick and just this side of doughy, make a satisfying base. But some of the more elaborate pizzas, including one that jarringly pairs sausage and a cream sauce with peas, don’t always come together. Pizzas here are best with just a few classic ingredients; the pepperoni is fine and the Italian sausage outstanding. Sandwiches excite: The sausage-and-pepper hero has a nicely tart marinara that plays well with the sweet and spicy main ingredients. More workmanlike are bland calzones and pasta dishes. — John Rambow

Meatball hero with cheese, $7.60; sausage, peppers hero with cheese, $7.60; pepperoni and sausage pizza (medium), $15.50