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Though New York has a reputation as the pizza town, the sad truth is that your average Manhattan slice joint is actually pretty average. This corner shop, co-owned by an ex-cop and a pizza veteran from Long Island, tries to rise above the herd (and it does a smidgen). But generally, despite a crisp crust and cheese with flavor, slices are indistinguishable in appearance from scores of other places, and the standard toppings are just that, no more. Heros and calzones are a couple of notches better than the norm. The one true standout is the Nonna Maria pie, made with fresh mozzarella, basil, and a marinara sauce that’s a chunky, garlicky wonder. According to legend, via the blurb on the takeout menu, the recipe was brought over from Tuscany by the owner’s grandmother. Who knows if it’s true? And who really cares? The fact is, the super-tasty pizza brings some much-needed zest to a blah slice scene. — Steven Stern

Nonna Maria pizza slice, $3.25

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