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97 Commercial St.,
Brooklyn, NY 11222
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Tue-Sun, 11am-10pm; Mon, closed
G at Greenpoint Ave.
$4.50-$14
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Not Accepted
Greenpoint Ave. to Ash St., West St. to McGuinness Blvd.
This venue is closed.
In deference to his Greenpoint neighbors, Steve Brooks makes a toothsome kielbasa omelette for brunch. But the rest of the time, the chef-owner of this eighteen-seat café adapts family recipes for a lightened-up, modernized version of Jamaican home cooking. Codfish cakes are impeccably fresh and crisp; moist jerk chicken is deftly seasoned, if not incendiary. Every main course (or "real food," as the menu puts it) comes with fluffy rice and peas, plantains, and greens. Tenuous as this might make the prospect of dessert, try to do justice to the place's namesake, a dense steamed sweet-potato pudding served on a banana leaf and drizzled with fresh cream.
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