- READER REVIEWS
Nearby Subway Stops
B, C at 81st St.-Museum of Natural History; 1 at 79th St.
- Full Bar
This venue is closed.
At this Upper West Side joint, what is loftily described as “modern tapas” feels more like an attempt to do everything at once. Jazz music mingles with American oldies, and the assortment of dishes ranges from interesting fusion plates (oxtail dumplings) to standard flavor pairings (shrimp with a garlic-white-wine sauce). The bar, restaurant, and lounge is homey enough: an exposed brick wall, vibrant paintings, and dim lighting make for date-worthy ambiance. Yet the kitchen’s interpretation of “global cuisine” lacks finesse. Jasmine-tea-smoked mackerel is a buttery complement to baguette slices, but the accompanying seaweed tartar sauce is overkill. Spicy almonds and a homogeneous bundle of watercress throw off the seemingly benign duck confit salad. (The green papaya and mango, however, is a smart balance.) Nevertheless, the pork belly buns could rival Momofuku’s in richness, and the short ribs are tender and complex, if perhaps too sweet.
- Scientists â€‹Pretty Sure Humans Could Eat Food Grown in Martian Soil
- Another Restaurant Bites the Dust on Clinton Street
- A Talented Pastry Chef Will Open a New Bakery in the Rockaways
- This 3-D Food Printer Actually Makes Pizza So You Don’t Have To
- Bergen Hill Relocates to Noho With a Seafood-Heavy Menu