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Because the wait can be maddening (small parties can't reserve), the crowd is a little too pleased with itself and eager to be merry, and the house has to handle so much self-importance into the wee hours, co-op board meetings can prove less stressful than getting settled into Blue Ribbon. Here's why it's worth the stress: a snappy dining staff that skillfully handles the cacophony without joining in. Tremendously vibrant raw seafood at a fair price. And above all, a menu that has no roots or rhythm other than its chef's passions. The only thing that sweet and spicy catfish, paella basquez, foie gras terrine, and pupu platter have in common is their yumminess. So make it easy on yourself-go to Blue Ribbon with a party of five or more. Then you can make a reservation and avoid the wait. Though you can't avoid the noise, at least you can join in-and if you happen to be taking advantage of the very late hours, it may help you stay awake long enough to enjoy your meal. — Hal Rubenstein

Reservations are only accepted for parties of 5-8.

Sweet and spicy catfish, $25.75

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