Profile

The Bromberg Brothers’ sushi restaurant is dim, datey, and just as fresh as it's always been. Nearly a decade after opening, it remains perennially jammed, but come early for a good shot at a large wooden booth or a spot at the sushi bar. The latter is a flesh-toned smorgasbord to behold, with chunks of colorful fish behind glass and a row of sushi staff standing at attention when they’re not furiously working. Start with some miso soup, which is served with the paste on the side. There's a long list of appetizers, but if monk-fish liver is available that day, there's a reason it's called the foie gras of the sea: It's marbled, meaty, and fatty. Sushi-wise, you'll find a vegetable-roll section, and concessions made for fancy-roll types, including dragon, tempura-flake, and three kinds of California Rolls. But the real draw is ultra-fresh fish served over perfect rice (lukewarm and very sticky); if price is no object, opt for some of the day's specials, like fatty, melting sea urchin straight from Japan, or generous chunks of king salmon. — Jenny Miller

Bruce Bromberg (who also owns Blue Ribbon and Blue Ribbon Bakery with his brother Eric) trained with Michelin three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire in France.

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Sushi (2003)