C, E at Spring St.; N, R at Prince St.
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The Bromberg Brothers’ sushi restaurant is dim, datey, and just as fresh as it's always been. Nearly a decade after opening, it remains perennially jammed, but come early for a good shot at a large wooden booth or a spot at the sushi bar. The latter is a flesh-toned smorgasbord to behold, with chunks of colorful fish behind glass and a row of sushi staff standing at attention when they’re not furiously working. Start with some miso soup, which is served with the paste on the side. There's a long list of appetizers, but if monk-fish liver is available that day, there's a reason it's called the foie gras of the sea: It's marbled, meaty, and fatty. Sushi-wise, you'll find a vegetable-roll section, and concessions made for fancy-roll types, including dragon, tempura-flake, and three kinds of California Rolls. But the real draw is ultra-fresh fish served over perfect rice (lukewarm and very sticky); if price is no object, opt for some of the day's specials, like fatty, melting sea urchin straight from Japan, or generous chunks of king salmon.Extra
Bruce Bromberg (who also owns Blue Ribbon and Blue Ribbon Bakery with his brother Eric) trained with Michelin three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire in France.