The historian Jonathan Bass has written that the three kinds of barbecue restaurants are black-owned; white “joints”; and upscale urban white. Blue Smoke is this last. But the restaurant’s chef, Louisiana native Jean-Paul Bourgeois, is clearly respectful of sacred barbecue traditions, and the food here is terrific. Try the five-pepper brisket, which at lunch can be ordered as part of an $18 special with a biscuit, one side, coleslaw, and a pickle. Choose the rich baked beans to accompany the supersoft brisket, charred nicely, not quite to candied-edge level, and served with hot sauce. Also: Other Southern sides are lovely, like pimento cheese. It’s the kind of place you might visit with your parents for a graduation dinner, or maybe on a Sunday night with 6-year-olds in tow (there’s a kids’ menu, and the Danny Meyer service is, natch, smooth and gracious).