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254 Court St.,
Brooklyn, NY 11231
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F, G at Bergen St.
$8-$20
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Accepted/Not Necessary
Hoyt St. to Columbia St., Brooklyn-Queens Expy. to Atlantic Ave.
This venue is closed.
Seafood restaurants in Cobble Hill often have the limited shelf life of raw fish. (Past casualties include Pier 116, Aqua and Whim.) The closure of the last one, however, had less to do with rotten recipes and more to do with the owner/chef Marc Elliot’s grand ambitions. For Elliot’s second venture, he expands his hybrid of New England seafood shack and region-hopping diner in scope as well as space—a Caribbean-blue room cooled by a fan made of boat-size propellers. Service is beach-town friendly, and the chef is likely to tour the room, soliciting feedback and offering suggestions. From the raw bar, the Mermaid Parade brings a four-person sampler of snappy oysters, clams, shrimp and crab claws. A starter of fried oysters is dusted with curry and served with razor-thin fried onions and a creamy, but slightly sweet dipping sauce. Southern cooking shows up in the barbecued shrimp tacos and tender carnitas with collard greens. Elliot's best results, interestingly, are marked by Asian influences. The gorgeous, flash-fried dragonfish, presented in a near-circular basket filled with a sesame-accented mixed greens salad, makes a prime option for those who get squeamish with whole fish.
ExtraIn addition to the weekday happy hour from 4pm to 7pm, when drinks are half price, the thoughtful "Teachers’ Happy Hour" starts Friday at 2pm. To futher add to the cultural mash-up, live bluegrass musicians play Tuesday and Wednesday nights, 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Recommended DishesFried oysters, $8; dragonfish, $19
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