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In the early nineties, radio personality Bob Law hosted Night Talk, conversing with civil rights leaders, sports stars, movie directors, and politicians. A blend of activism and down-home accessibility made him a celebrated figure in the African-American community. His jump to restaurant ownership follows suit; his seafood café serves homey Southern cooking, sans the grease. Inside the small storefront, decorated with African-American silhouette art and news clippings of Bob Law’s profiles, five tables and a jumble of chairs offer sit-down service. But the busy takeout counter handles most of the action, serving up grub that proves that soul food doesn’t need to come with a side of trans-fat guilt. Great slabs of catfish, salmon, and whitefish are baked on request, and massive servings of collards, okra, and tomatoes are simply steamed, instead of long-stewed with fatback. Indulgences are available, however, via the fryer — platters of fish and fries, tender house-battered chicken fingers, and brown-sugared sweet potatoes that are side dish and dessert in a single, tuberous serving. — Laurel Fantauzzo

Catfish dinner, $13.99; herb-baked salmon, $15.99; collard greens, $3.25; sweet potatoes, $3.25

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