Mon, 5pm-10pm; Tue-Thu, noon-10pm; Fri-Sat, noon-11pm; Sun, noon-10pm
L at First Ave.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Houston to 14th St., Ave. C to First Ave.
For casual, heartwarming fare, the far East Village has given us Bobwhite Lunch & Supper Counter. Just stepping into this tiny, bustling, Rockwellesque feeding station with its twenty seats (six of them counter stools) will boost your morale. There’s fried chicken flying out of the kitchen at a steady clip, hot sauces on the counter (Texas Pete is the one you want), and Willie Nelson and New Riders of the Purple Sage on the sound system. It’s the brainchild of Keedick Coulter, a native of Roanoke, Virginia, and, as such, a southern-food aficionado with a predilection for humanely raised meats and local, sustainable produce. (As he professes on his Facebook page, there’s nothing worse than an out-of-season tomato.) The menu is as small as the space. There’s a great pimento cheese sandwich on Orwasher’s bread; pulled pork with housemade BBQ sauce on a potato roll with a bit of mayo and housemade chowchow (a turmeric-tinged relish); and a meal-sized farmhouse salad with seasonal greens, radishes, scallions, fennel, and white cheddar that can be topped with chicken or catfish. But the fried chicken is the thing. It’s brined in sweet tea and cooked in a pressure fryer, and it’s pretty much perfect: crunchy, crackling, juicy, relatively greaseless, and full of flavor. It comes with a side salad and a wonderful buttermilk biscuit, and should be supplemented by any number of sides. (Our favorite: the black-eyed peas.) If dessert after such a down-home feast feels like overkill, sweet tea will suffice.Featured In
Fried-chicken dinner with black-eyed peas and creamed kale