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Clinton Hill locals have already embraced Bodegas, a low-key restaurant and bar that sprung up recently among the barber shops and nail salons lining Fulton Street. But it’s not only demand that has made Bodegas an instant hit—nor the fact that, like any good bodega, it’s open virtually nonstop, from breakfast through dinner. Owner Christian Dennery also operates Liquors in nearby Fort Greene, and both kitchens share the considerable talents of West African chef Gerard Kiki, whose deceptively diner-sounding menu abounds with global accents and a pervasive soul-food flair that’s deliciously evident in dishes like whole roast fish. Crunchy outside, firm and delicately flavored within, the fish is crusted with bread crumbs and served with cornbread. Kiki’s "pizzas" are actually hand-shaped flatbreads embellished with a choice of sauces and toppings, some—like hot pickled peppers and dates--unlikely to be found at your neighborhood slice joint. And it would be a mistake to forgo sides like bread-crumb-crusted mac and cheese, earthy black beans, and tangy, vinegar-kissed collards, not to mention the homemade strawberry-cinnamon cheesecake for dessert. — Rob Patronite

Pre-Fixe Menu: Daily, 5pm-7pm; $15.