Profile

The only bona fides at this standby Italian joint are to be found in the relatively cheap prices. Still, diners seem to appreciate the homey atmosphere: The bartender is also your waiter and a simple bruschetta arrives gratis for every diner. Factor in the outdoor patio, with its potted plants and low lighting, and the place might even possess a certain charm—if you give yourself over to the faux-Southern-Italian-villa décor. An appetizer of sautéed Portobello mushrooms is palatable, thanks to a heavy dose of garlic, but most of the pasta and meat dishes disappoint. That may explain why, during peak dinner hours, the only diners seem to be those lining their stomachs before hitting the bars down the street. — Michael Alan Connelly

Portobello mushrooms, $7.95; spaghetti carbonara, $11.95