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"We don't like new," says Williamsburg restaurateur Mark Firth. No kidding. Three years ago, he and partner Andrew Tarlow restored a 1927 Brooklyn diner (now Diner), preserving its quaintly dilapidated ambience while applying a veneer of hipness and-most important-assembling a talented kitchen. They can now be found, at Bonita, Firth and Tarlow's new cantina, four blocks away. In their trademark preservationist style, they've kept the former Latino lunch counter's sign trumpeting comidas criollas, the row of stools opposite the open kitchen, and a few nods to the old menu, like plantains. But cheese-dusted corn on the cob, fish tacos, and chiles rellenos, not to mention soft light flickering off multicolored tiles, set an entirely different tone. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—4 p.m.

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