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In Cameroon, a boucarou is an intimate, open-air backyard hut where family and friends convene for food and conversation. While neither intimate nor as humble as a hut, this upscale East Village lounge strives for the same communal appeal. The decor of the airy, garage-like space feels like it fell off the design truck on the way west to the meatpacking district, with clusters of café con leche banquettes with matching seating cubes, cherry-wood paneling, dim lighting, and a live D.J. The menu—despite the clubby vibe and lack of culinary focus—rises above the usual nightlife fare. Thick slabs of freshly sourced red and gold beets with organic greens and mellow goat cheese take nicely to a toasted hazelnut dressing, while chili ratchets up the heat of a soupy but delicious red snapper ceviche. Thai basil snuck in between chunks of rare tuna and tempura-ed nori brings the dish to life, and a soothing bed of polenta turns pan-seared sea scallops into comfort food. The dessert list is less eclectic, with a mousse trio, port-wine poached pairs, and pineapple carrot cake. — Kathleen Squires

Night kits include a grouping of half bottles for variety.

Good for the Group
The Boucarou platter—a smattering of scallops, shrimp, rack of lamb, tuna, spring rolls, and salmon—feeds two for $45, four for $80.

Pan-seared scallops, $24; beet salad with goat cheese, $11; red snapper ceviche, $14