F, M at 14th St.; 1, 2, 3 at 14th St.; 4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R at 14th St.-Union Sq.
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The French aren’t the only ones who know how to do a flakey croissant. Israelis, masters of delicate bourekas and sweet rugeleh, can compete. Especially Uri Scheft, the Israeli-born, Denmark-bred chef behind Union Square’s new café, Breads Bakery. He’s baking carb-y treats that go beyond the usual pain au chocolat. Place your order for a flat white espresso drink at the front, and then choose from fresh sandwiches on house-baked rolls and quiche tarts adorably adorned with onion slivers or leaves of sage. Or go for Scheft’s own invention; he loads pillows of puff pastry with ingredients like tomato and brie or mushrooms and cheddar, resulting in an unlikely improvement on pizza. In tribute to Scheft’s roots in Denmark, the space’s design is more Scandinavian-chic than precious Provençal—clean, cream-colored walls, minimal shelving, and industrial racks that roll out new batches of challah and pan de mie loaves. Get cozy in a Hans Wegner wishbone chair and nosh on something sweet; there’s airy rugeleh, sweet ricotta crumbles, and shortbread.Recommended Dishes