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Where there's a century-old brick oven, there tends to be superb pizza, and this off-the-beaten path Williamsburg restaurant is no exception. Quiet, friendly, a world apart from overheated Bedford Avenue, it's decorated with local art and full of local flavor, from the eggplant-based "Brooklyn Caviar" to the customers who sit in the 65-seat garden and smoke cigars iafter polishing off a hunk of Italian cheesecake. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Wood-fired chicken panini with roast tomatoes and goat cheese, $8; "Brooklyn Caviar" (a smoky melange of eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes), $6