Wed-Fri, 5pm-11pm; Sat-Sun, noon-11pm; Mon-Tue, closed
J, M, Z at Marcy Ave.; L at Bedford Ave.
$11-$14 per 1/2 lb, sliced to order
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Jersey-based beef smoker Dan Delaney—who learned his secrets in Austin—turned his famous experimental “Brisketlab” recipe project into both an excellent stop for top-notch meat and a surprisingly intimate dining option. The restaurant’s space, with exposed brick and decaying white walls lit by candles each evening, manages to be small without feeling too cramped. This understated air carries over to the back-wall counter, where meat men patiently dole out measured shares of ribs and brisket on a juice-covered cutting board. BrisketTown’s slim menu emphasizes the quality of its meats, which on most nights consist of flesh-heavy ribs and sweet slices of brisket so tender that they fall right off their own charred, peppercorn-specked crusts. If you’re a stickler for sauce, you may be disappointed: Delaney doesn’t believe in the stuff (and his meat doesn’t need it). But the kitchen doesn’t skimp on sides: A vinegar-tinged potato salad and a selection of extra-spicy pickles add a savory element to the mix, and a creamy apple custard pie ends the meal on a sweet, filling note.