Profile

The success of Mary’s Fish Camp in the West Village has spawned a young salt in Park Slope. Oyster-shucking behind the bar and plates clattering in the semi-open kitchen are part of the restaurant’s informal yet sea-proud vibe, rounded out by light woods, fishery photos and soft lighting. Confident simplicity and inventiveness rule the kitchen, which cooks up Eastern Seaboard staples like grilled Maine lobster, New England clam chowder and pan-seared skate wings. Salt-crusted shrimp, fried in the shell with a just-right salt and pepper coating, offers an uncommon crunchiness that surprisingly complements the buoyant shrimp. A dish of grilled French sardines (one of a handful of imports) sheds the fish’s tiny, briny reputation, enriching their subtly oceanic flavor with an earthy bed of lentils. The pan-seared Arctic char filet is salmon-colored and silky, supported by smooth polenta cakes and garlicky kale, and the piece-de-resistance lobster roll shines with vibrant, juicy hunks of lobster meat, lightly dressed on a sweet roll. — Karen Hudes

Salt-crusted shrimp, $10; lobster roll, market price