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For Upper East Siders who want a clubby night out without bouncers, velvet ropes, and the riffraff that comes with them, this clandestine brownstone delivers entertainment, an impressive wine list, and a serviceable, if safe, menu. Former Daniel and Alain Ducasse maître d' Jamais originally opened the “restaurant club” in 2002, and the spot oozes exclusivity, from its reservations-only policy to the intimate dining room hiding behind a sliding wall straight out of Get Smart. Modern art pieces and retail display cases lend a showy, retro feel to the space, making it look as if it could be Gordon Gekko’s swank living room. He’d feel right at home among the clientele (muckety-mucks and the socialites who love them) and with the menu’s indulgent touches. Caviar abounds, from the wasabi-flavored tobiko topping tuna tartare to the Siberian beluga with brioche toast and blinis. “Duos,” one ingredient prepared two ways, are a distinctive addition to the menu, beef being the tastiest option. Among entrées, soft short ribs are stewed in a rich port reduction, and charred hangar steak is drizzled with yuzu-cilantro butter. The best thing served here, however, is discretion: It’s a handy place to bring that secret someone. — Kathleen Squires

D.J.'s spin the best of the seventies and eighties on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Dress Code
No sneakers, no jeans, casual chic 

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• Jamais Again! (6/3/02)