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A glowing brick oven beckons hungry diners to Buca, a cozy Italian café tucked way up on the Upper West Side. With candlelight and intimate seating, the dining room feels like a refuge, and the Italian spoken between the staff only adds to the old-world charm. Hearty appetizers, including house-made meatballs, shine with fresh sauces and cheese, but the real star is the pizza. Crunch and crumb are artfully balanced in each crust, with specialty toppings such as soppressata, gorgonzola, and truffle oil. The white pizzas feel decadent, especially the quattro formaggi, whose four cheeses harmonize deliciously. Meanwhile, the homemade tomato sauce sparkles with tang and sweetness, though it tends to overwhelm the thin crust. If the dinner-plate-sized pies still leave you with room in your stomach, a light and creamy panna cotta or a generous slice of tiramisu make an excellent finish. — Mollie Kirk

Melanzane alla parmigiana, $7; Quattro formaggi e salamino, $11