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With its plum tapestry wallpaper, fireplace, and seasonal decorations, this local institution feels something like a suburban home, which is a good thing, since its neighborhood, leafy Gerritsen Beach, is about as suburban as Brooklyn gets. Cuisine-wise, too, it’s a long way from Manhattan’s haute fare. This is the kind of place where the butter for the bread is individually packaged in pats and entrées come with a choice of potato (mashed, fried) and overcooked vegetable (carrots, green beans). Still, the restaurant is living-room cozy, the portions generous, the prices fair, and the conversations charmingly Brooklynese. Add a few unexpected dishes, like a bratwurst with a nice snap and an excellent caraway-flecked sauerkraut, and a few off-the-wall touches like Irish step dancing and a dessert tray at brunch, and Buckley’s becomes a welcome, if not totally necessary, detour for expat suburbanites or anyone else who needs a break from microgreens and foam. — Melena Ryzik