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Myanmar, f.k.a. Burma, was long off-limits to American tourists so it’s no surprise that its cuisine is equally unfamiliar to most New Yorkers. At this brightly lit storefront, decorated with tapestries of kings astride elephants, the fare is true fusion cuisine: You’ll find Indian samosas, spicy Thai salads, rich Indonesian curries, and Chinese meat-and-vegetable stir-fries. While some dishes appeal to Western palates, others, like mee shay rice noodles flecked with bitter, fermented soybeans, are less likely to do so. Timid culinary Marco Polos should commence with palarta bread (a pirogen-ish starter) then follow it up with hot-and-spicy fish-stock soup and a salad of slivered tomato and cabbage sparked by ginger and jalapeños. Thickly sauced curries make fine entrées while tea sweetened with condensed milk suffices for dessert. This is emphatically not same-old, same-old Asian food. — Karen Tina Harrison

Pe palarta, $3.99; fish noodle soup, $5.99; ginger salad, $5.99; goat curry, $8.99

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