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Bussaco represents New Brooklyn Cuisine (NBC) — and this place is so Brooklyn that the communal table is made from white oak salvaged from Prospect Park. Beat that! Chef Matthew Schaefer is embracing the term, though he also uses plain ol’ “New York cuisine” to describe dishes influenced by his time at Judson Grill under Bill Telepan (they get a touch of refinement thanks to Schaefer’s recent stint at Le Bernardin). The chicken and waffles, for instance, are far from what you’ll find at Little House on Clinton: The brined, buttermilk-fried poussin is inspired by his southern wife's recipe (it’s his favorite thing to eat). Another personal touch: The pastrami duck breast (with pumpernickel-bread stuffing) comes with sauerkraut made from his mom’s recipe of onions, apples, duck bacon, and caraway. Bussaco's owner, Scott Carney — a former partner at Gotham Bar and Grill and the Tonic in Chelsea — is also a seasoned sommelier whose wine list shies away from massive markups. There’s also a full bar and an accompanying menu that includes a lobster roll, burger, and homemade-pickle plate. — Daniel Maurer

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Featured In

• Adam Platt's Where to Eat 2009 (1/5/09)
• Where to Find Clam Pizza (10/13/08)

Recipes at Bussaco

• Pumpkin-Seed Brittle (2008)