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This unassuming spot offers a plain slice that’s a cut above the usual. Visually, the place is discordant. There’s a brick wall festooned with Yankee photos and memorabilia, as well as a Norman Rockwell poster; it’s opposite a bright salmon-painted wall with pine wainscoting that’s decorated with ancient Minoan deities, including a bare-breasted snake goddess from Knossos. To its credit, slices here are simple and nuanced—thin, crisp crust is layered with complex tomato sauce redolent of oregano and sealed with a restrained amount of sweet mozzarella cheese. The menu also has numerous pasta dishes that, unfortunately, are overcooked; the lasagna is downright soupy. — Michael Anstendig

Plain slice, $3