Café Altro Paradiso

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

87 Very Good

Estela’s Ignacio Mattos takes on traditional Italian cooking and the results are surprisingly simple and satisfying.

234 Spring St., New York, NY, 10013

646-952-0828

http://altroparadiso.com/

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Known For

The lowdown

After making a splash with peekaboo plating and unexpected combinations at Estela, Ignacio Mattos wanted to do something daring for a name-brand chef in 2016 Manhattan: unadorned, stripped-down, no-tricks Italian cooking, along the lines of London’s venerable River Café. (Witness the quiet triumph of the antipasto plate; the butter-slicked potato ravioli; or a simple, succulent piece of perfectly cooked swordfish.) Although this strategy took some critics and fans by surprise, Mattos’s style here is no less satisfying, if arguably more traditional. The menu changes often, but the level of cooking and attention to detail never waver.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

What you need to know

Insider Tips The restaurant has a short “all day” menu to bridge the gap between lunch and dinner.

Recommended DishesCarpaccio; Wagyu burger; arancini with Calabrian chile.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelBring earplugs!