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Café Cello's Latin American dishes are a shoo-in when only something meaty, substantial, and in near-gargantuan portions will do for lunch. Standard grill items, such as hamburgers, don’t excite, but special lunch entrées, served with yellow or white rice and (usually) fried plantains, are oft times better than expected. One reliably fine entrée, the roast pork shoulder, is available every day. Topped by a shiny, dark-brown piece of chewy skin, it’s an exceptionally tender platter o’pig. Just as tasty are daily specials like the tangy, tomato-infused chicken stew and the large, buttery crisp-fried bluefish (with a hurried diner’s caveat: Watch for the bones inside). The dim seating area in back, with rickety-looking tables, has little more than walls painted mango and lime green to liven it up. It’s not a place to hang out, but in good weather, the pocket park next door hosts alfresco diners. Cognoscenti know to come early. Once the pork and the other dishes run out, this hole-in-the-wall café shuts down for the day. — John Rambow

Roast pork, $7.95; fried whiting, $7.95