Café China

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83 Very Good

At New York’s chicest Sichuan restaurant, the food is very tasty if sometimes a bit reined in.

13 E. 37th St., New York, NY, 10016

212-213-2810

http://cafechinanyc.com/

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The lowdown

Of all the Sichuan restaurants in the city, this one is probably the chicest, outfitted with cool, vintage chinoiserie and pretty ceramics, old schoolroom-style chairs and blue-velvet-backed booths. And the food is very good, enough so to have earned a Michelin star — but the fact that it did is evidence that it’s also a bit reined-in, perhaps to please a milder palate, and some dishes leave you wishing they were spicier, saltier, and funkier.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesDan dan noodles; bang bang chicken; ma po tofu; spicy cumin lamb; Chungking spicy chicken; braised pork belly with pickled mustard greens.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized