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Owner Vinh Nguyen transformed his former Silent H spot into this informal bistro meets diner, with the help of partner Zeb Stewart (Hotel Delmano, Union Pool). There’s an eclectic menu and a room decorated with antique knickknacks, booths, and a central bar. Caffeine snobs will be happy to see Stumptown coffee, as well as artificial-sweetener-free Mexican Coke. Appetizer salads are joined by chargrilled octopus with fennel and tasty squash croquettes with pickled cabbage. The large, somewhat fatty, grass-fed steak is accompanied by well-seasoned frites. Vegetarian lasagna layers homemade noodles, ricotta, and mushrooms, which impressively fill in for the missing meat. Brunch is served on weekends and a takeout coffee window runs all day long. — Daniel Benjamin

Crispy squash croquettes, $10