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Café Deville is a decent facsimile of a Parisian bistro, with varnished exposed bricks, copper-topped tables, and a long leather banquette—and menu standards like steak frites, mussels in wine, and an array of salads and a raw bar to start things off. French doors open up onto café tables along Third Avenue, allowing light to bathe a sociable weekend brunch scene that spills onto the street in warm weather. At night, the interior looks sleekly urbane, with red and blue dangling lampshades adding atmosphere to a large, dimly lit space. Vintage French posters splash color on the back wall, a welcome blast in the otherwise spare open dining room. Ingredients here are generally fresh, and preparations emphasize airiness. Generous rolls of gravlax are served with puffy, celery-flecked cream cheese, and a scribble of balsamic vinegar connects mushrooms to a slice of fluffy quiche. Duck can be on the gamey side, with thick layers of fat attached, but the savory sauce of sliced figs is a fine accompaniment. On the weekends, apres-diner, a downstairs lounge with DJs provides echoes of the Left Bank. — Ethan Wolff

Sat.–Sun., 11 a.m.–5 p.m.

Gravlax, $12.95