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If you can brave the long lines of Sigerson Morrison addicts and mustachioed artistes, you’ll find decent French-Moroccan food at this virtual elder statesman of cute Nolita hipster hangouts. Baked feta and a mix of olives and orange slices with crusty bread are easy ways to start off, and although the tagines can be little dry, the meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, with hard-boiled eggs, cucumber, and a drizzle of yogurt, are an inventive standout. But really, you’re not here for an epic meal—Gitane is all about sipping a glass of Bordeaux or shot of espresso while sitting at one of the sidewalk tables and ogling the fashionista traffic. — Matt Gross

Baked feta with mixed olives, $8.25; meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, $16