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Of all the self-important dining establishments populating the arid upscale food court at the Time Warner Center, this one is probably the most fun. Gray Kunz's menu is chock-full of old Lespinasse-style favorites, like the lightly creamy lobster chowder (during winter), bowls of classically dense mushroom risotto, and tender, blocky short ribs braised down to their rich, beefy essence. But the star of the show is the room itself, with its panoramic views of Columbus Circle, and the great open kitchen, which stands before the rows of white-tops like a Broadway stage. — Adam Platt

The booths near the bar, oddly enough, offer the most privacy. And if you've come only for the view, head up to the bar on the 35th floor of the Mandarin Oriental for a cocktail before your reservation. When you’re ready to have more of your senses activated, come to Café Gray.

Risotto, $27; short ribs, $41

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