Profile

Below the dank shadow of the Queensboro Bridge, this elegant bistro surprises with its buzz of convivial energy, worn-in wood floors, cream-colored walls, and rotating art, like a sizeable collection of black-and-white photos. Rich starters appeal most; silky and earthy foie gras is sweetened by syrupy peaches; salty, moist grilled white sausage pairs well with a spicy Dijon mustard. Classic mains—steak frites, roast chicken, and lemon sole—fare well, but the pièce de résistance is the popular “Le Burger Joul,” a ten-ounce all-beef patty. Chopped, not ground, sirloin amps up the texture while a sweet and sticky red-onion marmalade mixed with oven-roasted tomatoes adds a depth of flavor. It’s topped off with a melted slice of aged Gruyère, stuffed into a toasted brioche bun from Eli’s, and accompanied by a plate of extra-crispy fries. — Benjamin Kneen

Le Burger Joul, $18.50; grilled white sausage, $11.50