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This bistro’s location just off Fulton Street, with an outdoor deck and a dining room several steps below the sidewalk, keeps it low-key yet energized. A tall front window brings light into the space, kept cozy by a low, pressed-tin ceiling and made comfortable with a red, curving corner booth and chairs with red and yellow seats. Wrought iron gates, Moroccan ingredients, and reggae tunes reflect a cuisine that spans French North Africa as well as New Orleans and the Caribbean. The brunch offers dishes of ranging quality: a smooth, gingery carrot soup, an overdone omelette, and soft French toast. The Lafayette Burger is rich, dripping, subtly seasoned and served with crunchy fries. Croque Monsieur and panini are on the menu; avoid the tough hangar steak, which gets lost under Swiss cheese and roasted peppers. The space doesn’t draw the crowd it once did, partly due to more competition in the neighborhood, but young Fort Greene artists and families make up a longtime clientele. — Karen Hudes

The window can be drafty, so seats further inside are best in the winter.

Carrot ginger soup, $5; Lafayette burger, $8.50