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189 East Broadway,
New York, NY 10002
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Mon-Fri, 8am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun, 8:30am-10:30pm
F at East Broadway; J, M, Z at Essex St.
$12-$18
Cash Only
Accepted/Not Necessary
Water St. to Delancey St., FDR Dr. to Allen St.
On a quiet edge of Chinatown, this bright global hideaway is warmed by wooden furniture and an amiable menu blending nearly half a dozen cuisines. The best hail from the Mediterranean: falafel, served with a silky smooth hummus and warm, soft pita on the side, is crispy on the outside and extra parsley and herbs add a fresh flavor; couscous sops up herime, a thick tomato-based stew, chock-full of fresh seafood and vibrant with spice. Italy, and even Mexico (in the case of fried coconut chicken and fajitas), make appearances, but the overeager range lowers rates of success. Some entrees are only palatable thanks to generous sides. Both grilled chicken breast with cremini mushrooms, leeks, asparagus, and rice, and the herb-crusted salmon fillet with rice, radicchio, endive, asparagus, and a salad, are underseasoned and overcooked. Pappardelle Bolognese works because of freshly made pasta topped with ricotta; made with care, it’s rich and wholly satisfying.
Recommended DishesFalafel platter, $9.75; seafood herime, $18; chocolate bread pudding, $5
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