This venue is closed.
The back room of Serge Becker's ever-trendy Swiss spot, Cafe Select, has seen several iterations over the years, and the latest is this dozen-seat fondue room. While you might get hassled for not having a reservation, the exclusivity is mostly an illusion – unless a big party has taken over, there's likely to be space. German chef Ingrid Roettele (most recently of the now-defunct Heartbreak) presides over the brief menu of melted-cheese mash-ups, from basic (gruyere, raclette, and appenzeller cheeses) to vats laced with white truffle oil or herbs, as well as several daily specials. The bubbling curds are accompanied by cubes of bread and a plate of vegetables for dipping; with just the right notes of sharpness, it's a more satisfying meal than you'd think. There's little else on the menu – an arugula salad failed to elicit fireworks – and probably not much room for it on your table, anyway. In winter, the poorly insulated space, accessed by walking through the kitchen and decked in German flags, can be a bit chilly, so a visit is a good excuse to show off stylish outerwear.Recommended Dishes
House fondue, $20/$40