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Opened in 1977 when French brasseries were a New York novelty, this pre- and post-theater spot was a sideshow in its heyday. On most nights it was not uncharacteristic for waiters to roller-skate entrées to scenesters such as Steve Rubell and Bianca Jagger. Located in the same roomy location near Times Square, the still-grand space is different now. In 2007, a stage set of velvet curtains and airy frescos gave way to a proto French Bistro of yellow-washed walls, maroon banquets, and movie posters, plus some separation mirrors to isolate the long bar from the dining room. Chef owners George Guenancia and Gerard Blaines maintain much of the same classic fare, and though the dishes themselves may have dimmed, in this tourist-heavy 'hood, the show goes on. — Pervaiz Shallwani

Sat.–Sun., 11 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; $19.50 prix fixe

Prix Fixe Menu
Daily, three-course dinner, $28.50