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New owners overhauled the kitchen and décor at this long-running Curry Row, but the menu has stayed the same. Offerings hew to the Sixth Street line, with heavy sauces and the usual biryani, curry, and tandoori selections. Tikka masala comes in a bright orange sauce that’s tangy and rich, laden with coarse-cut onions. Onions also appear in the complementary dal, which is savory and flavorful despite its thin consistency. Saag paneer is served with appealing fried cubes of cottage cheese, though the creamy spinach sauce is disconcertingly sweet like maple syrup. Less cloying is the malai sauce; its subtle coconut and pineapple flavors pair well with lamb or chicken. The chic chrome space of Calcutta’s previous iteration is entirely gone, save for three backlit grilles in the rear of the low-ceilinged basement space. The restaurant’s best aspect is its convivial atmosphere, at its most appealing when classical sitar and tabla players take the settee in the front window. — Ethan Wolff

Chicken malai, $9.95