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440 Park Ave. South,
New York, NY 10016
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Mon-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11pm; Sun, 11:30am-10pm
6 at 28th St.
$10-$15
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Not Accepted
23rd St. to 42nd St., First Ave. to Sixth Ave.
This chain was started in 1985 in Beverly Hills by two lawyers who eventually introduced to the suburbs the new-California pizzas Wolfgang Puck pioneered at Spago. The diners here aren't Hollywood power brokers—mainly teens pack the tables and booths nestled among painted pizza boxes that funk up the otherwise minimalist, sleek décor. A boozier after-work crowd fills the tables near the full bar with a view of the assembly line-style open kitchen and giant hearth oven. The personal pizzas—inspired by Asian, Mexican, and regional American cuisines—unfortunately tend to come out lukewarm after being baked for several minutes. In general, the dry dough doesn't make for the most exciting serving bed. The crispy, homemade focaccia sandwich bread, with specialty flavors like garlic and cheese, has the opposite problem of greasiness. The drink menu—which includes bottomless sodas and blender drinks alongside California wines—is a reminder that despite the use of woks and fancier cheeses like gouda on the pies, this is essentially the tasteful-man's Pizzeria Uno, a slice of casual-dining suburbia.
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