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Who'da thunk that the West Side could ever boast a restaurant as uncalculatingly sexy as Calle Ocho? And yet how can you not be swayed by its spectacular Caribbean sunset of glazed terra-cotta; by the light filtering through its curved louvered ceiling, as flattering as a fresh tan; by the jewel-toned banquettes moving through the space like waves along the gulf, creating a grand café that beckons you to bat your eyelids, wet your lips, and get your torso to speak whatever it is you can't say? Let the staff steer you toward the flash fires of ceviches or the soothing arepas and tamales that the kitchen has devised to enthrall the neighborhood. Can't stand the heat? Get out the yucca fries, which, though tamer, deserve a Super Bowl commercial all their own. Could a Latin-tinged evening be more appealing? Yes, but until Rosario Dawson asks you to merengue, this will do quite nicely. — Hal Rubenstein

Brunch

Sun., 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

Recommended Dishes

Cuban style steak frites, $28; paella, $29

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Hal Rubenstein's Full Review (2/15/99)

Best of New York Awards

• Best for a Group of Ten (2004)

Recipes at Calle Ocho

• Calle Ocho (1999)
• Caipirinha (1999)
• Latinopolitan (1999)