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Neighbors have been lining up at Calvin’s small storefront on Bed-Stuy’s brownstone-lined Halsey Street for 30 years. After getting inside, you’ll place your order through a wrought iron gate. Behind that lies a fiery Vulcan den kitchen, where ribs are smoked, chickens are roasted, and fish are deep-fried. Though you might be suspicious of an establishment with no seating that has you pay through bullet-proof plexiglass, one bite of the saucy, falling-off-the-bone-tender ribs will set you straight. As will the crispy skin of a frittered drumstick. When it comes to sides, of which you get two, the only problem is which to pick—the tender collard greens and a helping of sweet yams? Or will it be the finely chopped slaw and a scoop of peppery mac and cheese to round out your BBQ chicken? Even a soupy-looking eyesore of a potato salad surprises with a pleasing vinegary edge and bursts of chopped onion. A caveat: Don’t show up too late or you’re bound to wait on line just in time to learn the kitchen has run out of ribs and homemade banana pudding. — Edna Ishayik

Rib dinner, $14.75; fried chicken dinner, $10.75; collard greens, $3