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North Brooklyn restaurateur couple Blair Papagni and Josh Cohen (Anella, Bellwether, metal bar St. Vitus) take their Greenpoint mini-empire to the waterfront with their latest spot. The interior resembles a riverside cabin, with distressed-wood tables and a deep green domed ceiling that contrasts with bare yellow lightbulbs. The bar’s meticulous cocktail list includes a library of custom bitters, and the plates themselves are just as carefully made. The retooled menu showcases the highbrow Americana vision of new chef Nathan Foot, formerly of Northern Spy Food Co. There’s a focus on locally-sourced seasonal produce—try the Brooklyn Grange mesclun salad-- however the menu’s meat and fish selections also happen to be among the most satisfying, like new additions of striped bass with artichoke barigoule and a spicy remoulade sauce, roasted bobo chicken, and the lamb burger with landaff cheese and pickled red onion. Desserts include a rich s’more served with toasted graham strips, orange slices, and a hot chocolate-syrup drizzle. — Patrick Coffee

Pan seared skate, $14