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The low-key elegance of Candle 79, its bi-level spread tuned by feng shui, can suggest the commissary of a high-end spa. An attractive Upper East Side clientele comes for healthy, organic, all-vegetarian meals, with menus that shift with the seasons. The hummus appetizer has a dense texture and a smoky flavor, served with flaky paratha bread. Among the salads, the arugula is a standout, with hearts of palm and earthy pine nuts connected by the sharp bite of a rosemary-balsamic dressing. Entrées tend toward hearty grains, and he chili-grilled seitan is complimented by sautéed chard and comes with an avocado-pumpkin seed salad. A spin-off of the original Candle Café, this nearby sequel is more sophisticated, its two floors marked by romantic low lights and plush seats. Downstairs features a long bar for sampling an impressive selection of organic wines and low-profile beers. — Ethan Wolff

Sat., noon-3:30p.m.; Sun., noon—4 p.m.; $32 prix-fixe

Arugula salad, $16