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The low-key elegance of Candle 79, its bi-level spread tuned by feng shui, can suggest the commissary of a high-end spa. An attractive Upper East Side clientele comes for healthy, organic, all-vegetarian meals, with menus that shift with the seasons. The hummus appetizer has a dense texture and a smoky flavor, served with flaky paratha bread. Among the salads, the arugula is a standout, with hearts of palm and earthy pine nuts connected by the sharp bite of a rosemary-balsamic dressing. Entrées tend toward hearty grains. Tempeh is seared in cabernet, which adds a bitter aftertaste, although the quinoa-cashew risotto on the side has an appealingly creamy texture. The paella’s taste is led by smoked seitan sausage, although the gluten tastes more of pepperoni than chorizo. A spin-off of the original Candle Café, this nearby sequel is more sophisticated, its two floors marked by romantic low lights and plush seats. Downstairs features a long bar for sampling an impressive selection of organic wines and low-profile beers. — Ethan Wolff

Sat.—Sun., noon—4 p.m.; $28 prix-fixe

Arugula salad, $15; paella, $20