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Diners shouldn't expect any big surprises from the menu at Cantina, but they can count on solid preparations and presentation. An entrée like the enchilada mole is both chocolaty and spicy, dodging the propensity of New York restaurants to hold back the heat. Shrimp fajitas hit the table sizzling, with no skimping on the number of shrimp. Light, airy tortillas, onions and peppers with a fresh crispness enhance many of the dishes, and the servers keep the bowls of chips and mild salsa filled, without charging extra. A hardwood bar, low lighting, and eighties pop and salsa tunes give the place a let-loose feel, but watch out if the Yankees make the world series: Cantina has a TV, and the owner boasts his bar always fills up with home team rowdies on big game nights. — Eric Wolff

Enchilada de mole, $11.95; shrimp fajitas, $14.95