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Spanish Harlem isn't particularly known for its haut cuisine, as locals tend to prefer diner-style Latin spots that serve the hearty rice-and-beans-based favorites they grew up with in their home countries. Caridad, a neighborhood meeting place teeming at all hours with everyone from children and teens to the elderly, mixes this kind of homestyle cooking—sweet plantains, oxtail stew, chicken mofongo—with several more expensive seafood dishes. The menu touts Caridad as “El Rey del Bistec” (The King of Steak) and there are a good number of beef specialties, served both Spanish-style and in various Continental-style sauces. Most food tends to be spicy, and extremely-hot chili sauce is available at every table for those who enjoy their eyes watering and tongue burning for hours afterwards. Diners without much knowledge of Spanish may have some trouble communicating with the staff, most of whom speak little, if any, English. With neon lights in the windows, plastic-covered chairs, and dusty construction workers at the counter, there is no mistaking Caridad for a high-end bistro. But it is a good spot for large families to sit around long tables, drink pina coladas, and reminisce. — David S. Hirschman

Pepper steak, $9