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The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel
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Mon-Fri, 7am-11am, noon-3pm and 6pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun, 8am-11am, noon-3pm and 6pm-10:30pm
6 at 77th St.
$42-$52
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
Executive chef James Sakatos, coached by Christian Delouvrier, shows a skillful touch with buttery risotto with chanterelles and a gorgeously seared sea scallop with celeriac rémoulade. The chef’s lobster salad dances with flavor, something missing in the black-bass barigoule. But the aristocratic Blue Foot chicken, a serious rival to the vaunted bird at my favorite Paris bistro L’Ami Louis, is carefully roasted, carved tableside, and lavished with voluptuous cèpes. And when the captain brings a tray of all-you-want caramels and candy, I feel born-again rich.
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