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From its inception in 1990, Carmine’s on the Upper West Side has been a runaway success, thanks to its crowd-pleasing Southern Italian cooking, a festive atmosphere, and prodigious portions possessing a free-spirited use of garlic. The look and feel is heavy on recreated nostalgia: Framed black and white photos of Italian-Americans from the twenties through the forties adorn the beige walls; dark wood paneling and antique-style hanging brass chandeliers add charisma to the cavernous interior. Most tables can accommodate parties of a dozen or so. It makes sense, as sharing plates is a must; this is not a place to dine alone. The crowd, a mix of locals, office workers, and bridge-and-tunnel celebrants, is drawn by the zesty old-fashioned red-sauce fare: a multi-layered brick of eggplant parmigiana; egg-battered vegetables enlivened with mozzarella and Romano cheeses and a tangy marinara sauce; and spaghetti and meatballs whose tender orbs of ground beef and veal are the size of baseballs. Nothing is subtle or innovative, but that’s precisely the point. — Michael Anstendig

Eggplant parmigiana, $19.50; pasta meatballs, $22.50; veal saltimbocca, $26.50

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