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Chef Carol Frazzetta's tranquil café and pub, nestled in charmingly suburban Dongan Hills, could make the list of worthy Staten Island destinations based on atmosphere alone—the warm, exposed brick walls, high tin ceilings with hanging plants, and rich, dark wood fixtures are as lulling as the hyper-diligent wait staff is genuinely attentive. Frazetta's menu, which reflects her training at London's Cordon Bleu and Paris's La Varenne, is the real draw, though: From the seasonal, crispy-sweet arugula salad with petite poached figs to the tart, elusively peppery poached red snapper to the near-gamy heartiness of the beef Wellington, the care and precision taken with each dish is abundantly evident. There are also daily specials of wild game, homemade pasta and risotto, and dessert—the buttery-rich blueberry crumb cake being a particular standout. It's enough to make you borrow a car and apply for an E-Z pass. For those who don't mind a mid-week ferry ride, Carol's also offers a bargain-priced four-course prix fixe meal on Wednesday and Thursday nights. — Mark Holcomb

Beef Wellington in phyllo pastry with wild mushrooms, $34.95