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12 E. 22nd St.,
New York, NY 10010
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N, R, W at 23rd St.
$20-$35
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
This venue is closed.
An unbalanced rush job of a restaurant. It's as if Jeffrey Chodorow’s life depended on purging the ghost of Rocco DiSpirito from the premises (Rocco's was at this address). But how can you steep anyone in the sultry, irresistible playfulness of Ipanema in a space that looks like the half-finished rec room of someone who fell in love with the décor of Gymboree? Not only is the world music lite more likely to fill an elevator than a sambadrome, the volume—I can't believe I'm saying this—is too low. The diffuse, gray lighting is seduction-free. But the most curious part of the enterprise is supervising chef Claude Troigros's baffling choice to fashion an intricate menu that's relentlessly sugarcoated.
ExtraBrunch: Sun, noon-6pm
Note: The house jalapeño caipirinha not only isn’t sweet, it has the best kick of any new cocktail in town.
Recommended DishesPasteis, $9; crêpe passion, $9
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